Heel fabric and method of knitting



June 19, 1934. Q MlLLER 1,963,240

HEEL FABRIC AND METHOD OF KNITTING THE SAME Filed NOV. 27. 1931 2Sheets-Sheet l Hag,

June 19, 1934.

M. C. MILLER HEEL FABRIC AND METHOD OF KNITTING THE SAME Filed Nov. 27,1931 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 IN VEN TOR.

Patented June 19 1934 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE SAME Max C. Miller,Cumberland, R. I. Application November 27, 1931, Serial No. 577,547

is Claims.

This invention relates to hosiery, more particularly the heels ofhosiery, being specifically shown as applied to shaped, later to beseamed hosiery.

The illustrations appended hereto show the new stocking, which bypreference-although not necessarily-is produced on so-called fullfashioned hosiery machines. These machines ordinarily produce eitherlegs or feet, the legs ordinarily being topped or transferred to thefooting machines.

' The present procedure is costly, requires the use of very skilledoperators, produces a weak fabric structure and is further objectionablein that the yarn used in the leg portion at the instep cannot be takenfrom the same yarn cone that later produces the instep portion of thefoot, due to two machines being used in the process, each of them havingtheir own yarn cones or spools. The invention herein disclosed willeliminate all these and other objectionable features.

The new type of stocking can be produced by making use of priordisclosed variations of full fashioned machine structures. It issuggested that the present disclosure be read in view of the patentrelating to split needle beds, an example being U. S. patent to H. L.Weigert No. 780,394; patent drawn to automatic press control, as anexample the U. S. patent to J. L. Le Gorre No. 1,782,007, and patentdrawn to nibbed knockover bits, an example of which is shown in the U.S. patent toW. Heinitz No. 1,682,965. The first noted patent disclosesone means of holding idle and in a raised position the instep group ofneedles; the second, discloses one means for causing only selectedgroups or individual needles to be pressed, while the last noted patentis drawn to nibbed knockover bits capable of knocking over and holdingdown fabric loops as they are formed, independent of the normal fabrictake-up.

Appended to this specification are two sheets of drawings, showing tenfigures. Fig. 1 shows as much of a flat unseamed fashioned stockingblank as is thought necessary to clearly disclose the new heel featurein relation to the known structure. Figs. 2 to 9 show the step by stepprocess of forming the new heels, Fig. 10 showing the new stocking blankjoined into a finished stocking.

The knitting of the stocking progresses to the instep line aa, Figs. 1and 2, as in ordinary practice, with the exception that the yarn forknitting the instep portion (a:) Figs. 1 and 2 is made non-active,remaining attached to the fabric, with the yarn eye standing oppositethe last instep needle (b) Fig. 2. The last course prior to commencingthe knitting of the heels extends from (d) to (b) Fig. 2; any form ofindividual press control will during the heel knitting permit all of theneedles to go down in the normal man-= ner, the needles between eb nothaving new yarn fed to them by the instep carrier and not 50 losingtheir loops as the needles go down, for the reason that these needleswill not be pressed.

The needles come up in the normal manner, a heel carrier thereaftergoing into action from the left-hand side (Fig. 2), while at the same 5time the instep group of needles (:0) Fig. 2 are caused to remain highand inactive during this next course and during the subsequent knittingof the heel.

In the first heel course, therefore, the left-hand 7o carrier will feedyarn which will be kinked between c and b (Fig. 2), no yarn kinkingtaking place in this course between other needles. The needles then godown, the needles between c and b pressing in the normalmanner, whilethe 7 needles b-e remain high, with the needles between e--d going down,but being caused to not press by the press control mechanism previouslynoted. j

The left-hand carrier now stands opposite the (b) needle and a newright-hand heel carrier is put into action so that in this stroke to theleft both the right and left heel carriers lay their yarn over the d-eand 12-0 needles respectively. The (b) or leading needle by preferencewhen producing this next, and if desirable any leading needle of anycourse, being caused to tuck (not press) by the press control means inorder to prevent the possible formation of holes and to strengthen thefabric. 9

The knitting continues back and forth with the two carriers for the c-band ed needles, the be or adjoining needles by preference tucking uponreversal, with the yarns feeding at each, or some specific number ofcourses, to a needle outside the (e) or (b) needle position so thatsuccessive courses will become shorter, until only a few needles areknitting each heel fabric, as shown in solid lines in Fig. 3, morefabric therefore having been knitted along the selvage edges, while atthe (b) and (e) points no additional course has been formed, theadditional fabric being shown at (y) Figs. 1 and 3.

Thereafter, a course of fabric is formed on these 0-4) and e-d needles,as shown in Fig. 4, and numbers of courses of 0-D, e-d length areknitted at successive intervals to new outwardly disposed needles, asshown in Fig. 5, the successively increased number of idle needles (x')moving up and down in conjunction with the needles c'-b', e'--d'; butnot forming loops as no yarn is being fed to them and not casting of!their loops due to their not being pressed. Any'desirable number ofcourses are so knitted, the inactive needles then being the needles 2',:c', :r", b,

(Fig. 1), the active needles holding the fabric shown in solid lines inFig. 5 or as shown in Fig. 1, c to b and e' to d.

The courses (I) Fig. 1 are then knitted, leaving idle an increasingnumber of needles :0 (Fig. 6), lessening at the same time the number ofneedles in the c"b", e"d" group by narrowing or lifting inward theselvage loops as in nor mal heel narrowing, as shown in Fig. 6, in whichthe lessened number of loops knitting is shown in solid lines c--b",e"-d", said shorter courses being shown similarly numbered in Fig. 1 theloops on the needles, therefore, being along courses d", e", e, :c', x",b, b", c", Fig. 1.

' The fabric (a) Fig. 1 will now be knitted, the yarn carriers feedingyarn to a lessened number of needles at prearranged courses, therebyincreasing the number of :r needles idled (Fig. 7) and also idlingneedles'from the selvage edges inward, until only one or two or a veryfew needles are active as shown by the solid lines in Fig. '7, such fewneedles forming the corner 9' (Fig. 1), the needles then holding theirloops along the courses d", g, e", e, 1:, :r", b, b, g", c" (Fig. l)Along the course d"--g', c"g" (Fig. 1) a loose course and thereafter anumber of courses of even length are knitted to form the sections offabric (h) Figs. 1 and 8. It is to be understood that the number ofneedles between the dimension (to) Fig. '7 and (w) Fig. 8, contain theneedles between a, e, e, :r', x", b', b, a". After the (h) fabrics havebeen knitted to the last course 72. and h", the needles that form theseportions cast off the fabric by not having yarn fed to them for onecourse, as shown in Fig. 9, and thereafter all the needles (w) Fig. 9are made active and have yarn fed to them, the

(2:) idle needles included, due to the instep yarn which has been,during the knitting of these heel portions, standing idle beside its(1)) needle (Fig. 2), feeding yarn to the (x) needles, while the sameyarn carriers that knitted the heel fabrics, or a new set of carriers,if a yarn change is desired, lay yarn from g", b", b to at", anothercarrier from :r, e, e" to 9' Fig. 1, in this manner knitting the courseshown in heavy lines in Fig. 9 and thereafter continuing the knitting ofthe foot.

The stocking just described will after seaming have the appearance shownin Fig. 10; The fabric knitted between Fig. 2 and Fig. 3 is the fabricshown at (d); the fabric knitted between Fig. 4 and Fig. 5 is that shownat (e); the fabric knitted between Fig. 5 and Fig. 6 is shown at (f),while the fabric knitted between Fig. 6 and Fig. 7 is that shown at (g),the fabric (h) Fig. 1 not having been shown in Fig. 10, as it is onlyformed to enable another operator to loop the fabric along the loosecourse d", g, c", 9' (Fig. 1), said looping juncture being shown at (h")in Fig. 10. The balance of the stocking except the toe juncture (7) isseamed as is at present customary, an ordinary high splice being shownin dotted lines at (is) Fig. 10.

While the heel herein shown has been described as being produced on afiat machine, it is not restricted to being so produced, but may well beadapted for use in connection with other well known types of machines,it being remembered that the basic feature of the invention is to knitheel courses, so that their inner terminal edges can later be joined, bycontinued knitting, with the foot fabric course or courses and in thismanner permit the knitting of a more nearly right angle junctured footand leg fabric than is now possible with any type of stocking except theso-, called two machine knitted cotton full fashioned hosiery,accomplishing this new result at a very much lower cost and with the useof but one machine. The disclosure at the same time clearly indicateshow such a very desirable stocking can be formed without manually orotherwise using or transferring the terminal or marginal edges of theheel fabrics to form the setting up or initial course of the footfabric.

I do not therefore limit my invention to its application to anyparticular type of stocking or machine, but what is claimed is:

l. The process of forming the heel portion of a stocking blank whichcomprises knitted heel flap courses while holding the terminal loops ofthe wales forming the instep portion of the fabric, discontinuingknitting and holding the terminal loops of successive wales adjacentsaid instep portion of the fabric during the formation of following heelflap courses, and adding loops successively to the outer ends offollowing heel flap courses to secure the required width of heel flapfabric.

2. The process of forming the heel portion of a stocking blank whichcomprises knitting heel flap courses while holding the terminal loops ofthe wales forming the instep portion of the fabric, discontinuingknitting and holding the terminal loops of successive wales adjacentsaid instep portion of the fabric during the formation of following heelflap courses, and adding loops successively to the outer ends offollowing heel flap courses to secure the required width of heel flapfabric, and thereafter knitting courses from the said held waleterminating loops of the instep and the adjacent inner edges of the heelflap fabrics to form the foot portion of the stocking blank.

3. The process of forming the heel portion of a stocking blank whichcomprises knitting heel flap courses by holding the terminal loops ofthe wales forming the instep portion of the fabric, discontinuingknitting and holding the terminal loops of successive wales adjacentsaid instep portion of the fabric during the formation of following heelflap courses, causing additional loops of yarn to be laid over the lastheld terminal wale loop at certain reverses of the yarn to form tuckstitches, adding loops successively to the outer ends of following heelflap courses to secure the required width of heel flap fabric, andthereafter knitting courses from the said held wale terminating loops ofthe instep and the adjacent inner edges of the heel flap fabrics to formthe foot portion of the stocking blank.

4. The process of forming the heel portion of a stocking blank whichcomprises knitting heel flap courses while holding the terminal loops ofthe wales forming the instep portion of the fabric, discontinuingknitting and holding the terminal loops of successive wales adjacentsaid instep-portion of the fabric during the formation of following heelflap courses, and adding successively a substantially equal number ofloops to the outer ends of the heel flap courses to maintain the widthof the heel flap fabric.

5. The process of forming the heelportion of a stocking blank whichcomprises knitting heel flap courses while holding the terminal loops ofthe wales forming the instep portion of the fabric, knitting a series ofsuccessively shortened heel flap courses by discontinuing knitting andholding the terminal loops of successive wales adjacent said instepportion of the fabric, knitting a course the entire width of each ofsaid heel flap fabrics terminating adjacent said instep fabric, andthereafter knitting a number of heel flap courses while discontinuingknitting and holding the terminal loops of successive wales adjacentsaid instep portion of the fabric during the knitting of said followingcourses and simultaneously adding loops successively to the outer endsof said courses to secure the'required width of heel flap fabric.

6. The process of forming the heel portion of a stocking blank whichcomprises knitting heel flap courses while holding the terminal loops ofthe wales forming the instep portion of the fabric, knitting a series ofsuccessively shortened heel flap courses by discontinuing knitting andholding the terminal loops of successive wales adjacent said instepportion of the fabric, knitting a course the entire width of each ofsaid heel flap fabrics terminating adjacent said instep fabric, andthereafter knitting a number of heel flap courses while discontinuingknitting and holding the terminal loops of successive wales adjacentsaid instep portion of the fabric during the knitting of said followingcourses and simultaneously adding loops successively to the outer endsof said courses to secure the required width of heel flap fabric, andthereafter knitting courses from the said held wale terminating loops ofthe instep and the adjacent inner ends of the heel flap fabrics to formthe foot portion of the stocking blank.

'7. The process of forming the heel portion of a stocking blank on aseries of needles which comprises knitting heel flap courses whilemaintaining loops on inactive instep needles, adding needlessuccessively to each end of the inactive instep series during theknitting of following heel flap courses, and adding needles successivelyto the outer ends of the active series to secure the required width ofheel flap fabric while maintaining the terminal loops of each waleforming said heel flap fabric on the needle originating said wale.

8. The process of forming the heel portion of a stocking blank on aseries of needles which comprises knitting heel flap courses whilemaintaining loops on inactive instep needles, adding needlessuccessively to each end of the inactive instep series during theknitting of following heel flap courses, causing certain of saidsuccessively idled needles to form tuck stitches upon reversal of thefeeding yarn, and adding needles successively to the outer ends of theactive series to secure the required width of heel flap fabric whilemaintaining the terminal loops of each wale forming said heel flapfabric on the needle originating said wale.

9. The process of forming the heel portion of a stocking blank on aseries of needles, which comprises knitting heel flap courses whilemaintaining loops on inactive instep needles, adding needlessuccessively to each end of the inactive instep series during theknitting of following heel flap courses, adding successively asubstantially equal number of needles to the outer end of the seriesknitting the heel flap fabric to form heel flap fabric of substantiallyuniform width while maintaining the terminal loop of each wale formingsaid heel flap fabric on the needle 'originat; ing said wale.

10. The process of forming the heel portion of a stocking blank on aseries of needles which comprises holding the terminal loops of thewales forming the instep fabric on inactive instep needles, knitting anumber of courses on each adjacent group of heel flap needles, addingneedles successively to the inactive series to form a wedge, knitting oneach group of heel flap needles a course the full width of said heelflap fabric, said courses terminating on the' needles adjacent saidinactive instep series, adding needles successively to each end of theinactive instep series while retaining terminal loops of successivewales adjacent said instep series, adding needles successively to theouter ends of the active series to maintain the required width of heelfabric for a number of successive courses, knitting an additional numberof heel flap courses while adding needles successively to the inactiveinstep series for successive courses and simultaneously narrowing at theouter selvage edges of said courses, and thereafter knitting courses onthe entire series of needles holding terminal wale loops of the instepand inner edges of the heel flap fabric to form the foot portion of thefabric.

11. The process of forming the heel portion of a stocking blank on aseries of needles which comprises holding the terminal loops of thewales forming the instep fabric on inactive instep needles, knitting anumber of courses on each adjacent group of heel flap needles, addingneedles successively to the inactive series to form a wedge, knitting oneach group of heel flap needles a course the full width of said heelflap fabric, said courses terminating on the needles adjacent saidinactive instep series, adding needles successively to each end of theinactive instep series while retaining terminal loops of successivewales adjacent said instep series, adding needles successively to theouter ends of the active series to maintain the required width of heelfabric for a number of successive courses, knitting an additional numberof heel flap courses while adding needles successively to the inactiveinstep series for successive courses and simultaneously narrowing at theouter selvage edges of said courses, knitting an additional number ofheel flap courses rendering needles successively inactive at each end ofboth active series, knitting a number of ravel courses on a relativelyfew needles at each end of the entire Series holding terminal waleloops, and thereafter knitting courseson the entire series of needlesintervening said ravel course needles to form the foot portion of thefabric.

12. A stocking blank comprising a leg portion, a foot portion, and heelflaps comprising each a number of heel flap courses of substantiallyequal width, the innermost loop of each of certain succeeding coursesforming the terminating loop of an adjacent wale outwardly considered,and the outermost loop of each of certain succeeding courses forming theinitial loop of an added wale outwardly considered.

13. A stocking blank comprising a leg portion, heel flaps comprisingeach a number of heel flap courses of substantially equal width, theinnermost loop of each of certain succeeding courses forming theterminating loop of the next adjacent wale outwardly considered, and theoutermost loop of each of certain succeeding courses forming the initialloop of an added wale outlzi wardly considered, and a foot portioncomprising instep courses connected through knitting to said innermostwale terminating loops.

14. A stocking blank comprising a leg portion, heel flaps comprisingeach a number 01' heel flap courses of substanially equal width, theinnermost loop of each of certain succeeding courses forming theterminating loop of the next alfiacent wale outwardly considered, andthe outermost loop of each of certain succeeding courses forming theinitial loop of an added wale outwardly considered, additional heel flapcourses narrowed at their outer ends, certain of said narrowing courseshaving the innermost loop of each succeeding course forming theterminating loop of the next adjacent wale outwardly considered, and afoot portion comprising instep courses joined by knitting to saidinnermost wale terminating loops of said heel flap courses.

15. A stocking blank comprising a leg portion, heel flaps comprisingeach a number of heel flap courses of substantially equal width, theinnermost loop of each of certain succeeding courses forming theterminating loop of the next adjacent wale outwardly considered, and theoutermost loop of each of certain succeeding courses forming the initialloop of an added wale outwardly considered, additional heel flap coursesnarrowed at their outer ends, certain of said narrowing courses havingthe innermost loop of each succeeding course forming the terminatingloop of the next adjacent wale outwardly considered, additional heelflap courses, the innermost loop of each of certain succeeding coursesforming the terminating loop of the next adjacent wale outwardlyconsidered, and the outermost loop of each of certain succeeding coursesforming the terminating loop of the next adjacent wale inwardlyconsidered, ravel courses joined by knitting to said outer waleterminatingloops of said latter group of heel flap courses, and a heelportion having instep courses joined by knitting to said innermost waleterminating loops of said heel flap courses.

16. A stocking blank comprising a leg portion, heel flaps, each of saidheel flaps comprising a series of successively shortened and lengthenedcourses to form a triangular gore adjacent said leg portion, additionalheel flap courses of substantially equal width, the innermost loop ofeach of certain succeeding courses forming the terminating loop of thenext adjacent wale outwardly considered, and the outermost loop of eachof certain succeeding courses forming the initial loop of an added waleoutwardly considered, additional heel flap courses narrowed at theirouter ends, certain of said narrowing courses having the innermost loopof each succeeding course forming the terminating loop of the nextadjacent wale outwardly considered additional heel flap courses, theinnermost loop of each of certain succeeding courses forming theterminating loop of the next adjacent wale outwardly considered, and theoutermost loop of each of certain succeeding courses forming theterminating loop of the next adjacent wale inwardly considered, ravelcourses joined by knitting to said outer wale terminating loops of saidlatter group of heel flap courses, and a heel portion having instepcourses joined by knitting to said innermost wale terminating loops ofsaid heel flap courses.

MAX C. MILLER.

